When you’re upgrading or building a mountain bike, the hub might not be the first thing you think about. Most riders focus on frames, suspension, or drivetrains. But here’s the truth: your hub plays a huge role in how your bike feels on the trail. The type of hub you choose affects strength, engagement, compatibility, and even the sound your bike makes when you’re coasting.
So, let’s break down the main MTB hub types and figure out which one actually fits your riding style.
1. Front Hub vs. Rear Hub
Sounds obvious, right? But it’s worth mentioning.
- Front Hubs are usually simpler — their main job is to hold your wheel in place and spin smoothly.
- Rear Hubs are more complex. They house the freehub mechanism, which controls engagement (how fast your pedals catch when you push).
👉 Most of your decision-making will be about the rear hub, since that’s where compatibility and performance features come in.
2. Boost vs. Non-Boost
This is one of the first questions people ask when shopping for hubs.
-
Boost (110mm front / 148mm rear):
Wider spacing = stiffer wheels. Better for aggressive riding, downhill, and modern MTB frames. -
Non-Boost (100mm front / 135mm rear):
Older standard, still common on many bikes. Slightly lighter, but not as stiff.
👉 If you ride modern MTB frames, chances are you’ll need Boost. If you’re upgrading an older frame, you might stick with Non-Boost.
✅ Koova hubs are available in both Boost and Non-Boost, so you don’t have to compromise no matter what frame you ride.
3. Quick Release vs. Thru-Axle
This one comes down to how your wheels attach to the frame.
- Quick Release (QR): The old-school system with a lever. Easy to remove wheels, but less stiff.
- Thru-Axle: Stronger, stiffer, and now the modern standard on most MTBs. Better for aggressive riding and rough trails.
👉 If you’re buying new wheels or hubs, go for thru-axle unless you’re keeping an older bike running.
1.Quick rekease End cap 2. Thru axle End cap
4. Straight-Pull vs. J-Bend (Spoke Interface)
This part is about how your spokes connect to the hub.
- J-Bend (elbowed spokes): Traditional, widely available, easy to replace.
- Straight-Pull: Stronger and stiffer, but requires specific spokes and can be harder to find.
👉 If you’re chasing performance and don’t mind a little extra effort in sourcing spokes, straight-pull hubs can give a cleaner, stiffer wheel build.
1. J-bend hub Rear 2. Straight pull hub Rear
5. Freehub / Cassette Compatibility
This is where things get confusing for a lot of riders. Your hub’s freehub body determines which cassette you can run:
- Shimano HG: Works with most traditional 8–11 speed MTB cassettes.
- SRAM XD: Needed for SRAM 12-speed cassettes like GX, X01, XX1.
- Shimano Microspline: Required for Shimano 12-speed (SLX, XT, XTR).
👉 Pick the right freehub body based on the drivetrain you’re running.
✅ Koova hubs come with HG, XD, and Microspline options, so you can swap drivetrains without worrying about buying a whole new hub.
1.HG 2.XD 3.MS
6. So… Which MTB Hub Type Is Right for You?
If you’re a casual rider with an older bike → a Non-Boost J-Bend hub with QR might be just fine.
If you’re upgrading to a modern trail or enduro bike → you’ll want a Boost thru-axle hub with Microspline or XD.
If you like stiff, responsive wheels → consider straight-pull hubs.
At the end of the day, the best MTB hub type is the one that matches your frame, your drivetrain, and your riding style.
Why Riders Choose Koova Hubs
- ✅ Available in Boost & Non-Boost
- ✅ Multiple freehub options: HG / XD / Microspline
- ✅ High engagement for instant power transfer
- ✅ Designed for durability without breaking the bank
Whether you prefer loud engagement for trail confidence or a smoother, quieter ride, Koova hubs give you options to make your bike feel exactly how you want.
👉 Final Tip: Don’t overlook the hub. It might not be the flashiest part on your bike, but it’s one of the most important for performance. If you’re upgrading wheels or building your dream MTB, choosing the right hub type could be the smartest move you make.